A Walk through Time
1514
6th January 1514: The term "Yler" or "Hilir" is first mentioned in a letter from Rui de Brito Palatim, Captain-Major of Melaka, to Alfonso de Albuquerque, Governor of Portuguese India. He refers to “Tuan Colaxaquar, the Yler Moorish Javanese…”
During the Sultanate of Melaka, Javanese merchants were the most numerous community, divided into East Javanese in Kampong Hilir under Tuan Colascar, and West Javanese in Kampong Upeh under Utimuti Raja. In Malay, "hilir" means downstream, possibly referring to the Ayer Leleh River.
Figure: Portrait of Alfonso de Albuquerque.
Source: Pedro Barretto de Resende, Livro do Estado da India Oriental, Sloane MS 197, British Library, available here: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Afonso_de_Albuquerque_(Sloane).jpg (Public Domain)
1613
1613: The Portuguese cosmographer Manuel Godinho de Erédia, in his Description of Malaca, provides the first detailed account of “Povoaçam Yler” (Banda Hilir), describing its population of 1,300 Christians and other inhabitants living in wooden, thatched houses along “Rua dos Piedade” (road to Our Lady of Mercy Church).
The area stretched from “Ribeyro de Aier Lele” (stream of Ayer Leleh) to “Vion Pacer” (Ujong Pasir), with “Campo St. Jao” (plains of St. John) covered in fields, swamps, and palms as far as “Buquet China” (Bukit China) and “Buquet Pipi” (Bukit Pipi).
Figure: Map of Melaka under Portuguese rule drawn based on maps and texts of Eredia 1613.
Source: JMBRAS Vol. XII Part II Aug. 1934, Page 1.
1641
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“Most of the houses were built of planks and bamboos...The southern suburb was not enclosed and was called Bandar Hilir. Here most of the mestics, the blacks and some Portuguese citizens lived happily under the shade of coconut trees and surrounded by beautiful gardens and pleasure grounds.”
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Commissioner Justus Schouten described Melaka just after its capture by the Dutch. In his Report to His Excellency the Governor-General Antonio van Diemen and Members of the Council of India, he mentioned Banda Hilir.
1820
Foundation of the An-Nur Mosque in Banda Hilir was laid by Dato’ Shahbudin bin Haji Mohd. Amin, a Javanese from Cirebon.
Figure: An undated photograph of the mosque.
Source: MASJID AN NUR, BANDA HILIR [03 November 2020] Melaka Dulu-Dulu, available here: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/XXFzgP8U4uwFFiAL/ (Credits to the original owner of the photograph)
1630s
“Banda Iller” (Banda Hilir) is mentioned on the map by Manuel de Faria e Sousa.
Figure: The Portuguese fortress at Melaka, 1674. “Banda Iller” is mentioned on the top right section of the map.
Source: Manuel de Faria e Sousa, Ásia Portugueza, Vol.1, (Lisboa: Antonio Craesbeeck de Mello, 1674), available here: https://epress.nus.edu.sg/seaways/item/the-portuguese-fortress-at-melaka-1674 (Public Domain)
1811
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“…after we had proceeded for about a mile on the road, we turned off, in order to make a shorter cut to the object of our walk; and following a narrow pathway, we soon found ourselves in a thick grove of coco-trees. Several cottages stood near…On gaining the top of the hill, by a winding path, we found that it was a small military station in the care of a few Sepoys. Some cannons were mounted, and a flag-staff erected here for communicating signals…It was certainly a most beautiful view of Indian scenery, and contained every feature desirable in a picture, contrasted, however, with buildings of European architecture. Plantations of rice, Malay cottages, groves of cocoa and palm trees, stretching to the sea, which is studded with green islets to a great distance, composed one side of the prospect; while the other, with similar subjects, embraced also the town and the shipping…”
View of Banda Hilir from St. John’s Hill was described by James Wathen in Journal of a Voyage in 1811 and 1812, to Madras and China.
1827
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“The Inhabitants that come next under consideration are the Siranies or native Portuguese. These are the remains of the once large population of Malacca who are now dwindled to no more than 2,289 souls… These people are all poor and many live in wretched houses erected in that part of Malacca called Banda Hilir. It is by these men that the inhabitants are so largely supplied with fish, with but few exceptions they have no other employment and are constantly out in small sampans following this precarious livelihood… They speak a language peculiar to themselves which may be denominated as Creole Portuguese as the original has been greatly corrupted.”​​
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A census reported by W. T. Lewis, Acting 2nd Assistant Resident, Malacca, in 30 June 1827 described that:
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As published in A. H. Dickinson, ‘The History of the Creation of the Malacca Police’ in Journal of the Malayan Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society, Vol. 19, No. 2 (139), October 1941.
1837
Possible establishment of the Yong Chuan Tian Temple in Banda Hilir, dedicated to Tee Ong Yah, one of the five revered Ong Yah deities.
Figures: Wangkang barge seen in front of the Yong Chuan Tian Temple in 1933. Photographs courtesy of Daniel Ang Yam Seng.
1850s
The period during which the Chapel of the Assumption had been in existence, initially as a wooden structure with a thatched roof, as suggested by Fr. Pintado.
1860
The Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus was established in Melaka by Mother St. Mathilde Raclot of the Dames of St. Maur.
Figure: The orphanage of Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus, with Mother Tarcisius and Mother Martha, circa 1940. Photograph courtesy of Audrey Lim and Shirley Sim.
1865
The Chapel of St. John the Baptist, built on land donated by the De Souza family in 1864, was completed and consecrated by Fr. François Allard, the parish priest of St. Francis Xavier Church.
Figure: The U-shaped building of the St. Francis Institution, in 1906.
Source: The Franciscan: St. Francis Institution: How It All Began, available here: https://thefranciscan.org/SFI.html
St. Mary’s School, a private school for the boys was established in a thatched roof house behind the Chapel of St. John the Baptist in Praya Lane by Fr. Maximilian De Souza. In 1880, the school was moved to Riverside Road, opposite St. Francis Xavier Church and renamed St. Francis School. Its name was later elevated to St. Francis Institution.
1872
Figures: (R) The façade of the Chapel of St. John the Baptist. Photographs courtesy of Audrey Lim.
(L) Interior of the Chapel of St. John the Baptist showing the kindergarten children greeting Mother Provincial from France with a presentation, in 1955. On the right: headmistress Mrs. Woodford; on the left, opening the window: Miss Yap. One of the girls present in this photograph is Hazel Westerhout. Photographs courtesy of Hazel Westerhout.
1891
First mention of Banda Praya in a map commissioned by Sir CC Smith, Governor of the Straits Settlements.
Figure: Sir Cecil Clementi Smith (not to be confused with his nephew Sir Cecil Clementi.
Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cecil_Clementi_Smith#/media/File:Cecil_Clementi_Smith.jpg (Public Domain)
1919
​The Chapel of the Assumption was rebuilt in brick, forming a cross-shaped design with its entrance facing inland.
A grotto with a statue of Our Lady was later added to the rear of the chapel, facing the sea, to allow fishermen to continue their routine of saying a prayer before going out to sea.
Figures: (T) A photograph of the Chapel of the Assumption after being rebuilt in 1919. Source: Edited to enhance visibility; originally obtained from the Sacred Heart Convent Gallery.
(B) A group photo of Maurice Lowe, Evelyn Lowe (née De Costa) and her family members with the ‘bangsal’ in background. Photography courtesy of Evelyn Lowe.
1924
A complaint was lodged about the condition of Praya Lane, specifically the section between the main road and the Chapel of Banda Praya (The Straits Times, 1 August).
1928
A sports event was held on land behind Praya Lane to entertain Portuguese children (Malacca Guardian, 9 January). In August, fishermen from Praya Lane caught and dried tons of shrimps (gragos) for belachan, and the Feast of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary was celebrated at the Chapel with a statue procession and Mass by Fr. Coroado (Malaya Tribune, 23 August).
1935
• Governor Sir Thomas Shenton and his wife visited Melaka, including the Portuguese fishing village of Banda Praya, the Malacca Eurasian Association, Garden City, and the Chapel of the Assumption. (The Straits Times, February 11)
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• The first families moved from the Praya Lane area to the Portuguese Settlement, which began to expand after World War II.*
*Reference:Being Portuguese in Malacca: The Politics of Folk Culture in Malaysia by Margaret Sarkissian
Figure: The beach at the Portuguese Settlement during low tide. Photograph courtesy of Evelyn Lowe.
1938
• A plea was made to the Municipal Commissioners to repair Praya Lane. (The Straits Budget, December 1)
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• The 11-acre Banda Hilir Padang was completed after reclamation works.* It was renamed Coronation Park in 1953 to commemorate the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II and subsequently Taman Merdeka. In 2004, it was officially known as Taman Bunga Merdeka.​​​
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Reference: Padang Banda Hilir, Melaka [16 February 2021] Melaka In Fact, available here: https://www.facebook.com/melakainfact/posts/padang-banda-hilir-melakain-1926-the-reclamation-work-by-pwd-began-in-3-stages-t/798136320778594/
​Figure: (T) The Banda Hilir Padang in the 1930s, depicted on a Christmas greeting card. Photograph courtesy of the Lim Keng Watt Collection and Audrey Lim.
(B) Youthful children by one of the several cannons, or "dua lieng gong" in Hokkien, at the Banda Hilir Padang, with the present-day People's Museum building standing in the background. Photograph courtesy of the Sim Family.
1897
A Straits Budget article dated 9 March described Ilir (Banda Hilir) as a solitary and unpopular place. Further from this, there is a village by the beach called Banda Praya. When a great combat occurs, it is customary for the men and women to gather with long sticks, sometimes throwing empty coconuts (klong-kong) at whatever comes their way. The girls' complexions are darker and incomparable to those from Tranquerah, and their behaviour reflects a lack of education.
1923
The Bishop of Macau, during his visit to Melaka, celebrated Mass at the Chapel of the Assumption (The Straits Times, 7 March).
1926
Fr. François and Fr. Coroado, parish priests from the French and Portuguese Missions, suggested establishment of a settlement on the outskirts of Melaka to move the “poor Portuguese” fisherfolk.*
*Reference:Being Portuguese in Malacca: The Politics of Folk Culture in Malaysia by Margaret Sarkissian
1929
• July 25: The Municipal Commissioners discussed the delayed installation of a standpipe in Praya Lane, promised two years earlier. (The Straits Budget)
• November 6: $50,000 was allocated to buy and drain 30 acres in Ujong Pasir for a Portuguese fishermen's settlement, as development had displaced them from Praya and Banda Hilir. Lots would be allotted on Temporary Occupation Licence basis at affordable rents. This decision was influenced by Fr. Jules François and Resident Councillor W.B. Elles. (The Straits Times)
1936
• Concerns were raised about the dilapidated state of houses in Kampong Praya, with hopes for relocation to the new Settlement. (The Straits Times, February 9)
• For the St. Peter Feast, Fr. Rego led a boat procession decorated with flags and banners from the chapel to the Portuguese Settlement and back. High Mass was celebrated by Fr. Coroado. The fishing season was notably poor. (The Straits Times, July 2)
1939
​Capt. Minjoot requested that action be taken against frontagers to compel repairs to Praya Lane. (The Straits Budget, June 29)
1942
Melaka fell into Japanese hands on January 15, 1942.
1945
The Japanese Occupation of Malaya ended on August 15, 1945.
1950s
A seawall at the Praya Lane beach was repaired in a project led by Sim Mow Yu and a group of volunteers.
Figure: Volunteers led by Sim Mow Yu jointly rebuild a collapsed sea wall at Praya Lane. Photograph courtesy of the Sim Mow Yu Calligraphy Museum and Sim Beck Ghee.
1952
Minister for Portuguese Overseas Territories, Commander MS Rodrigues, visited Melaka, including Praya Lane. (Singapore Standard, May 17)
1957
Malaya gained independence, with the date declared at Banda Hilir by then Prime Minister Tunku Abdul Rahman a year prior.
1959
A grotto dedicated to St. Anthony of Padua, featuring a black statue, was added to the compound in 1959.
Figure: (R) The grotto dedicated to St. Anthony at the Chapel of the Assumption. Photograph courtesy of Philomena Selvamani Anugraham.
(L) Olga Frois with her daughters and niece at the grotto dedicated to Our Lady. Photograph courtesy of Olga Frois and Jeffrey Low.
1958
The Chapel of the Assumption was expanded to accommodate up to 550 people. (The Straits Times, 13 August)
1960s
The deconsecrated Chapel of St. John the Baptist in Banda Hilir was demolished to make way for a three-storey shophouse, which has since been home to the Saturday Ice Cafe.
1962
Praya Lane was renamed Lorong Pantai, "In persuance of the policy of Malay being the National Language" of the country.
1963
1967
The Malacca Portuguese Cultural Society was founded by Bernard Sta Maria.
Figures: A Portuguese cultural show held in Sabah in 1977, organised by Bernard Sta Maria. Photographs courtesy of Mary Lazaroo.
Malaysia was formed.
Figure: An undated photograph of the mosque.
Source: An old map of Malaysia following its formation in 1963 [2023] Reddit, available here: https://www.reddit.com/r/malaysia/comments/16jxar8/an_old_map_of_malaysia_following_its_formation_in/
1971
Lorong Pantai was renamed Lorong Praya, and a list of houses in Kampong Bandar Hilir were renumbered, adopting Lorong Praya as their new address.
Figure: A copy of the document describing the change of addresses in the area.
Source: Malacca Government Gazette
1974
Land reclamation along the Melaka coast in relatively recent times commenced.
1980s
The Fishermen Club’s jetty was built by the fishermen folk and volunteers.
Figures: (T) Lionel Theseira (Martin's Theseira's father) seen squatting by the jetty; in the boat are Anne Ghouse and a few children. (B) At the Fishermen’s Club jetty, Anne Ghouse carrying her child as Aloysius De Mello follows her from the back. Photographs courtesy of Martin and Maria Theseira.
1975
The Wall of Friendship is constructed by fishermen and volunteers, at the back of the Chapel of the Assumption.
1989
Melaka is officially declared a historical city.
1990s
The Melaka Raya development, built on reclaimed land known locally as "red earth," is completed.
Figures: (T) Tony Franco riding on a bike on the reclaimed land area with his daughter Elisa and nieces, in the 1980s. Photograph courtesy of Elisa Da Costa.
(B) Christian De Mello at red earth. Photograph courtesy of Martin and Maria Theseira.
